Tokyo
23 December Heisei 23
I awoke early this morning and went down stairs for breakfast. During my weeks in China I got used to the huge buffet breakfasts almost everywhere I stayed. I loved to start off with the spring rolls, dumplings, and stir fried chicken and vegetables. Then it would be a large plate of sausages, bacon, scrambled eggs and pancakes with lashings of maple syrup. But things are very different in Tokyo. Yesterday I had the western breakfast, which was an odd selection of sliced ham, a boiled egg and a piece of white toast about four centimetres thick. Today I had the Japanese breakfast. It was a bowl of miso soup, a small bowl of rice, a piece of smoked fish, and an egg. At first I thought it was a boiled egg, but it turned out to be just a normal raw, fresh egg. Not sure how it should be eaten, I left if for a while and waited to see what the Japanese guests did. But the Japanese couple near me had opted for the Western breakfast. So I took a punt and cracked the egg into my soup. It was quite pleasant, but nothing remarkable. The fish was nice, if a little boney. It was accompanied by some small plumbs which were incredibly sour, so I left them and finished the rice. By then a Japanese man was at the table next to me and he cracked his egg over the rice. Oh well, at least I know for tomorrow morning.
Just before eight I headed off for the Imperial Palace. The Imperial Family’s first appearance was scheduled for 10:20 and I wanted to make sure I got there early enough to get a good spot. The hotel is across the road from the Imperial Palace’s Hanzomon Gate. There was little sign of anything out of the ordinary, though the police booth at the gate had a flag out. As I was waiting at the lights, two policemen came running past, only to turn around and run back to the gate. The other police seemed a bit fidgety; so maybe the running back and forth was just a way to break the tension? I discovered tonight, after I watched the news, that I probably just missed the arrival of the Crown Prince and Crown Princess, Prince and Princess Akishino, and Prince and Princess Hitachi.
It took about fifteen minutes to walk to the plaza in front of the Imperial Palace. There were several queues forming at designated points around the perimeter of the plaza, and a security check point in the centre. I chose one to join and settled in for the wait. It was then that I realised how very cold it had become. The blue sky had disappeared as clouds came rolling in. Luckily I had brought my beanie, gloves and scarf with me as I ended up needing them all. Some of the other queues had smatterings of European faces, but mine was entirely Japanese. There were a lot of elderly ladies, but also many young couples and families. Everyone was very polite, and, apart from occasional chatter, it was fairly quiet. If it had been China the locals would have stared at me, laughed, said hello and taken photos. But not the Japanese. They studiously refused to show any interest in the large man with a big bushy beard who was towering over them. I had already noticed that the Japanese do not really like to speak English, even though they have learnt it at school and seem to understand what is said. So with their politeness, and my shyness, our part of the queue remained very quiet.
Eventually we were on the move. The various queues were brought into the next holding pen, and then ushered through the security check. I had to show my passport and my backpack was thoroughly searched by a young policewoman. I forgot that I still had half a roll of toilet paper in my bag (a vital necessity in China). The policewoman pulled it out, realised what it was, and quickly put it back. She then examined my camera to make sure it really was a camera. Finally, with only the hint of a smile, she pointed me in the direction of the next queue. This one was numbered, and a sense of expectation now spread through the crowd as we got closer to the Imperial Palace. One of the queues was lead by a couple of dozen people holding tall long banners. Some had chrysanthemums or the Hinomaru, while others had greetings in Chinese characters. Paper Japanese flags, the Nisshōki, were handed out, but not to foreigners. All eyes turned to the Nakamon Inner Gate at the end of the Seimon Ishibashi Main Entrance Stone Bridge.
At 10 am on the dot the great wooden gates opened, and the numbered queues began to move in a very orderly fashion. It was wonderful to look back out over the plaza from the Seimon Ishibashi to see the prospect usually seen only be the Emperor and Empress (and the Imperial Guard sentry on duty). Once through the Nakamon, it was a steep incline up to the right and then over the Seimon Tetsubashi Main Entrance Iron Bridge. This is the bridge that was originally called the Nisshōki Double Bridge, because of its two level design. The wooden Nisshōki was replaced by an iron bridge in 1888 (which in turn was rebuilt 1964). From certain angles the iron bridge appears to hover above the stone bridge, so the name Nisshōki stuck, now referring to both the Seimon Tetsubashi and the Seimon Ishibashi. From hidden speakers came the sound of Imperial Court Music. Though quiet unusual, the music is strangely compelling with the mournful strains from the Shō, a traditional reed instrument, and the occasional drum beats.
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| The visitors making their way into the Imperial Palace |
The different queues began to merge into one at the entrance to the Kyūden Tōtei Plaza in front of the Chōwaden Reception Hall. I wondered if there would be a rush for the front. But nobody made a break, and the crowd, moving only a tiny little bit faster, remained orderly as it converged beneath the glassed in balcony of the Chōwaden Reception Hall. I was in a good spot, about 20 metres from the front. It also helped that I was taller than most of the Japanese, so my view was excellent. There was a great sense of anticipation and subdued excitement, but still everyone remained fairly quiet. There were certainly no chants of “we want the Emperor.” There was an announcement, part of which, I think, was to tell everyone which members of the Imperial Family would soon be seen (I made out Tennō, Kōgō, Kōtaishi and Akishino ). There was a footman standing like a statue on the balcony. I checked my camera settings with him, and then enjoyed the final moments of anticipation.
At 10:15 silence descended on the crowd as all eyes focused on the balcony, and the last few minutes ticked by. Then, at precisely 10:20, the sliding door behind the wide screen at the rear of the balcony opened. A courtier could be seen, making a deep bow, as he moved off to the right to make way for the Emperor. His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Japan then came slowly out from behind the screen, followed serenely by Her Imperial Majesty the Empress. Immediately thousands of paper Japanese flags were raised and waved with great vigour. I was surprised by the sound made by all these waving paper flags; like extremely loud mosquitoes buzzing all around us. This sound was then overwhelmed by the great cries of Tennō Heika, Banzai! Ten Thousand Years to His Majesty the Emperor! With each banzai everyone raised their arms, almost like a mini Mexican wave. It was extremely moving, and I tried to savour every moment. The Emperor and Empress were joined by the Crown Prince and Crown Princess, Prince and Princess Akishino, Princess Mako, and finally Prince and Princess Hitachi. They all moved to their assigned spot on the balcony and sedately waved to the crowd. It was wonderful to see the entire family so closely.
The roars of Banzai continued for a couple of minutes, and then the Emperor prepared to speak. As he did the Banzais and arm salutes stopped, and the flags went silent. I’m not sure what the Emperor said, but he spoke slowly and clearly. Until then I had not taken any photos. I learnt long ago not to worry too much about photos. It tends to result in images remembered as if through a view finder, or a small video display. It is better to enjoy the moment; listen to the sounds, watch the crowds and soak up all the atmosphere of the moment. While the Emperor spoke I did take a few photos of all the Imperial Family, but pretty quickly put my camera down again as the Emperor came to the end of his speech.
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| The Crown Princess and Crown Prince, the Emperor and Empress, Prince and Princess Akishino and Princess Mako |
The roars of Banzai continued for a couple of minutes, and then the Emperor prepared to speak. As he did the Banzais and arm salutes stopped, and the flags went silent. I’m not sure what the Emperor said, but he spoke slowly and clearly. Until then I had not taken any photos. I learnt long ago not to worry too much about photos. It tends to result in images remembered as if through a view finder, or a small video display. It is better to enjoy the moment; listen to the sounds, watch the crowds and soak up all the atmosphere of the moment. While the Emperor spoke I did take a few photos of all the Imperial Family, but pretty quickly put my camera down again as the Emperor came to the end of his speech.
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| The Emperor thanks his visitors for their birthday felicitations |
As soon as the Emperor stopped, the flags came straight back up and, if possible, were waved with even greater enthusiasm. The roars of Banzai came back with greater gusto, and I even made out a few cries of Kōgō Heika Bonzai! Ten Thousand Years to Her Majesty the Empress! The Emperor looked genuinely happy and with a big smile acknowledge the cries of loyalty. The Empress looked a bit tired, and her concern for the Emperor could be seen in the way she kept an eye on him. The Empress and the princesses all held a fan in one hand, and gloves in the other, and stood in the same formal manner; it gave a glimpse of the formality of the Imperial Court. I was particularly interested to observe the Crown Princess who is the subject of so much speculation. She was smiling and waving, but there was, perhaps, a certain tension in her expression. The Crown Prince, however, was relaxed and smiled broadly. . Princess Akishino was the most relaxed princess; when the time comes she will make a fine Empress. For Prince and Princess Akishino’s daughter Princess Mako, it was her first time on the balcony as an adult member of the Imperial Family. I thought she looked quite nervous, if not actually frightened! I’m sure she will relax over the coming years as she undertakes more public duties. Prince and Princess Hitachi seemed somewhat reserved, with Prince Hitachi showing the sort of awkwardness I remember seeing in footage of his late father, the Emperor Showa.
The Emperor looked at the Empress, she smiled at him and took a step back as he prepared to lead the family back into the Chōwaden Reception Hall. With a slow stately reserve, all the members of the family fell into line behind the Emperor and Empress. After a couple of final waves, and more roars of Banzai, the Emperor and Empress disappeared from sight behind the screen. With perfect choreography all the princes and princesses were soon gone as well. The flags came down again, but the long tall banners came back up to lead everyone away from the Kyūden Tōtei Plaza. Now there was a lot of animated chatter and big smiles. Everyone had thoroughly enjoyed their opportunity to greet the Emperor and see the Imperial Family. The happy crowd made its way past the Imperial Household Agency and back out onto the plaza through the Sakashitamon Gate. Straight away the sights and sounds of busy Tokyo replaced the peacefulness of the Imperial Palace. I made my way towards Tokyo Station, and along the way several vans passed by with loud speakers blaring out messages or playing jaunty military music. They were flying the Nisshōki national flag and the Kyokujitsu-ki rising sun naval ensign. On the streets other groups were handing out pamphlets; I was given one in English about the Japanese atrocities in Korea and China during the Great Pacific War.
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| Princess Akishino and Princess Mako |
The purpose of my trip this year was to be in Tokyo to see the Emperor on his birthday. I have travelled over 5,000 km by train and boat since arriving in China about five weeks ago. I’ve been to Guangzhou, Xian, Lhasa, Shigatsu, Chomolungma (Mt Everest) North Base Camp, Beijing, Shanghai, Osaka, Kumomoto, and Kyoto. Was it worth it just to see the Emperor? Absolutely. He is the 125th Emperor of Japan; the direct descendant of Jimmu, who became, according to traditional dates, Japan’s first emperor on 11 February 660 BC (11 February is today celebrated as Japan’s National Foundation Day). An unbroken line of Emperors descended from Amaterasu Ōmikami, the Sun Goddess; an “Imperial Throne coeval with heaven and earth.”
